A Brief Glimpse of Genoa

 




What could beat a mid week break in Genoa that included fabulous food, an interesting exhibition and my first experience of the opera?
Five of us took the train from Ventimiglia to Genoa—just over two hours away, it feels a world away from Menton.  It is definitely a city of contrasts. Its glorious past is demonstrated by extravagant buildings on wide thoroughfares but extensive graffiti suggests a less affluent present.  In the old town, which spreads up from the port, tall oppressive buildings border dark narrow streets until you turn a corner into a bright expansive square or look up an alleyway towards a magnificent church. Off the tourist trail it is a very friendly welcoming city, everyone seemed to be smiling. Perhaps the sunshine was an influence there...


Our hotel was very well placed for the Berthe Morisot exhibition in the Doge's Apartment of the Palazzo Ducale. I have to admit that I had to research Berthe Morisot before I went, as my only experience of her work was from greetings cards that I have appreciated and sent.

She was unusual among women of her time in that her mother encouraged her, and her sister, to undertake a serious art education (her sister took the more traditional route and gave up painting when she got married). 

Berthe worked closely with Edouard Manet (she later married his brother Eugene) and was able to exhibit her work in Paris with other early impressionists.  The first female impressionist, her paintings document women's lives.

In the same building was an exhibition of well known books given 'alternative' titles.


 And a photo exhibition, the images felt brutal after the soft impressionist domestic scenes.

It all helped us work up an appetite for an excellent lunch on Via Garibaldi.


        



I was blown away by my first experience of opera (where better to experience it than Italy?) The audience was enthusiastic and appreciative—the average age a lot younger than I had expected. 

I'd had to do my homework on the opera too otherwise I'd have been a bit lost—although the subtitles, even though in Italian, helped. Andrea Chénier by Umberto Giordano is an Italian opera set during the French revolution, based on the life of a French poet. It's full of drama and angst and was brilliantly performed. A wonderful evening!



Teatro Carlo Felice






Alongside all that culture, Genoa offered us fabulous food in quirky restaurants.  I will definitely go back and have another look, especially as I didn't have time to explore all the shops (although I did look round a shop offering Italian lifestyle...)






 
With all that Italian culture I've been reading a bit of Irish crime!




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